A Day Away

Spent the day in the mountains, it was my first trip this season. Just wanted to test my fitness and test some new gear and ideas. There was little snow, but man what a fantastic day. The sky was so blue.

Worked on two equipment tests. One was the way I laced my plastics. The inner is left loose. The outer is now tightened but skipping the last d-ring on the instep before the lock-off ring (see photo). Major break through! Warm feet all day and no pressure point pain.

Secondly, I've reduced the layers to a Helly Hansen Lifa top with a Therma Tech second layer jacket. Thereby reducing layers by one. Now if I'm climbing and it's cold I put one more layer on being a Gore shell. This traps the heat and allows moisture to breath out. When I stop for any period I put a down jacket straight over the top. Now when walking or climbing the layers are light warm, and removing moisture, allowing greater ease of movement.
Checked out several new climbs with a bit more snow and ice, they look very exciting. Check out the photo.

Paying the Price

Got up late today not feeling the best. I'm tired from the weekend and now paying the price for doing to much yesterday. I kind of knew that I was pushing to hard but sometimes you just have to override that little voice in your head.
Went for a walk with my dog Henick. What a fantastic day cool but sunny with a light southerly breeze just touching the tops of the hills. Being a week day there was no one about so I got lost in my thoughts for an hour. This is the ideal battery recharge for me I feel more focused and alive now.
It helps so you don't take yourself or life to seriously.

I've been trying to keep things around me as simple as possible lately. I've found my focus is stronger, I sleep better and notice and appreciate smaller portions of my life. We pay large amounts of money for entertainment and every morning and each night the sun rises and sets. This visual master peace is free and just takes a moment too appreciate. How fast and how superficial life has become when we fail to notice this happening and its right out there daily. The photo I posted today was taken by my girlfriend Sally when she was in Dubai earlier this year. Its so wonderful its priceless.

When the Tank is Empty

Why do you come up with the best efforts when you are at your most spent?
Tonight I returned to the short wall. I was tired, and had to motivate myself to get started.
I fitted the shunt and the first attempts had a clarity about them that was lacking the day before. Is it I was thinking clearer as I concentrated harder? As a good friend once said “ether you get good or give up”.

I am happy that I decided to scrap 5 months effort,as the new start sequence is far better, all be it a lot more difficult!.
I enjoy the thought process required when function difficulty is an obstacle, it challenges me in so many ways. It challenges my determination to apply myself and keep coming back after failure.
Failure is a learning tool if you look hard and read the why I failed and most importantly learn from your failure. Each time there is and improvement or an option explored and used or discarded. The most accepted fact surrounding failure is the average adult fails three times at a task then gives up. I am always aware that the feeling of being beaten is a learning tool not to be given up on.
I took today as a step forward I was outside doing what I love learning and enjoying small victories.

"BE NOT AFRAID OF MOVING SLOWLY, ONLY OF STANDING STILL"

Back to the Beginning

After watching two friends climb the short wall, I've scrapped my start sequence. My five months of on/off work is in the rubbish bin.







Today I started the sequence from a completely new point. More in line with the existing bolts.
Man it's so different, it slapped me back time and time again today. The angle has altered several extra degrees it makes a huge difference to the technique needed.


I took several good falls one freaked me out big time. So on the next fall I grabbed the rope. Note, when falling on a shunt - DON'T grab the rope. Result three fingers burnt.



















The big difference with the shunt is, I tire out faster, as there is no rest between falls. I tend to jump straight back on. I need to take more time as my arms pumped out real fast today.

The Shunt Rules

Just back from my project on the short wall. Up until now I've had to have a partner belaying the climb. Progress has been slow when the weather has also taken its toll on the time I've been able to spend working it out. Sally or OJ have stuck to the belay task, so a big thanks to them. It helps to have a extra set of eyes and the motivation of a committed partner.

Today I used a petzl shunt for the first time it rocks!!!. I set the top rope, abseiled down, ticked the holds to date, had a good look at the next section and lowered off. The shunt takes seconds to load on a weighted rope. My first climb was just off the ground. With a tentative test the shunt behaved as the instructions stated, so away and up. First bail off and instant stop. I was left hanging looking at the overhang, no slippage nothing. The best bit is I was able to instantly start again. A quick prussic and off the rope with out any hassles. The time saved is so cool. Stoked!